Split/Zadar/Plitvice/Zagreb - Days 142-145

4 cities in 4 days...needless to say with all the moving around, I've neglected my blog a bit. Plus I was having a little Couchsurfing crisis with people not responding or saying they can host and canceling at the last minute.

On Thursday I caught a morning bus from Split to Zadar, another town on the Adriatic coast about 3 hours north. Good thing my host in Zagreb had to go out of town last minute, or otherwise, I wouldn't have even stopped in Zadar. It is a gorgeous little town; no big surprise there. It is built on a natural peninsula and juts out into the sea in an almost perfectly rectangular shape. Like other walled cities, there are many historical sites like gates, churches, monasteries, etc...but the coolest thing for me was a modern structure called the Sea Organs. They're staggered steps built into the sea side in different configurations with holes, and when the waves crash again them, they sound different notes like a organ. So they're entertaining and utilitarian at the same time, and also an ideal place to watch the sunset. 

Friday saw me rise early to catch yet another bus from Zadar to Plitvice to see the famous chain of lakes. It is a famous national park with turquoise lakes in different altitudes that cascade into each other. I had no intention of visiting but then someone showed me a picture and plans were altered. Plus it was conveniently located between Zadar and Zagreb, my next location. The only problem was working around the bus schedules. I arrived in Plitvice a little before noon and stored my luggage in a local hotel. Sidenote: The only complaint I have about Croatia is that people charge for everything and will flat out say "no" without any expression on their face when you ask for a favor. The lakes were amazing as expected and the boardwalks and trails were well-marked and accessible. I was prepared for strenuous hiking in 85 degree weather but the park tram did the hard work for us by driving us to the top and allowing us to walk down. So I spent 5 hours in the park and caught a bus by the side of the road to Zagreb. 

That's really when the "fun" started. A lady on Couchsurfing agreed to let me stay with her for Friday evening but when I called her after arriving at the bus station, she was convenient out of the city and wouldn't be back until after 10pm. Okay...no problem, I can deal with that, so I waited in the center. Per her instructions, I texted her after 10pm - no response. After waiting another 30 minutes, I called her only to discover that her phone was turned off. At least the city is still in full swing at 11pm so I wasn't alone or in any danger. Thankfully, I had a backup guy who kindly took me in at after 11pm. Today I found a "I'm  SO SO SORRY" email from her. No worries lady. 

So Zagreb is really nice; probably one of my favorite capital cities. I generally don't like them because they're often too large and sterile, but Zagreb is very walkable with a nice old town. I've been walking around all day discovering "upper town" with its old streets and architecture and also "lower town" with the shopping and large administrative buildings and museums. There is also a heavenly ice cream store that I've already visited twice in 12 hours.