I can't believe the last time I posted was in Vic Falls! Seems like ages ago. Too many things to report - so I'll break it up into two entries.
Right now I'm in Zanzibar but getting here was no easy feat. I left Vic Falls on a Sunday morning and didn't get here until Wednesday afternoon!
The short version: taxi to Zimbabwe and Zambia border, taxi across the border, taxi from the border to the bus station, wait 90 min for bus, 7 hour bus ride to Lusaka, Zambia, stranded at the bus station, go home with a random Chinese family, back to the bus station the next day, 35 hour bus ride to Dar es Salaam, Tanzania, spend the night in a YWCA, ferry to Zanzibar the next day.
I should re-title this blog "the kindness of strangers" because the people I've encountered along the way have been lifesavers. When I arrived in Lusaka and found out that the bus for Dar had already left, the entire staff of the bus company mobilized. One person suggested I sleep in the office, another said I could sleep on the bus, three people offered to take me home (which I politely declined), and finally the owner of the bus company called his Chinese bus supplier or what he called "a fellow countryman" to come get me and take me home. Looking back, it was a blessing that I missed the Dar bus because I would have gone insane if I were on a bus for almost 50 hours.
Remember the line in "Blood Diamonds" when Leo says "TIA: This is Africa?" That's precisely what was going through my mind as I boarded the bus for Dar. TIA for a traveler basically means transportation is never on time and there are always a couple of surprises. What was reported to be a 26-28 hour bus ride turned into 35. And this was by far the shittiest bus out of all the ones I've taken on this trip. No ac, 55 other people (with people in the aisle), and trapped in the back row between four men in a seat that doesn't recline. My heart sunk...and that was before the bus ever departed the station, haha.
Once the bus left, it flew. I didn't know whether to be grateful the bus was going so fast or scared for my life. Throughout the night, several times it swerved so much that I thought it might roll. Plus the bus felt like it was about to rattle and fall apart...and I felt the same way. But alas, we survived the night and spent about 5 hours idle at the border waiting for it to open and clear all the passengers.
I was finally able to sleep a bit during the second day, mainly from sheer exhaustion. All was going well until about 5 hours from Dar, and then I get sick. It must have been a combination of exhaustion, starvation, and dehydration (and maybe the blaring African music) but all of a sudden nausea hits and takes me down, haha. It's kinda humorous now that I look back on it. Me - sitting there with a plastic bag in my hands, dry heaving since I had nothing in my stomach. The best part? As I'm hunched over, the guy next to me taps my shoulder and points out the window. I look up and there are elephants and giraffes and zebras by the side of the road grazing. Gives a whole new meaning to TIA. It was spectacular; I just wish I could have made a better first impression.
We roll into Dar a little past 11pm. I had originally arranged a Couchsurfing host but I didn't want to bother her at such a late hour and decided to crash for the night at the YWCA. Never did a cold shower feel so good :)
The next day I met up with my Zanzibar CS (couchsurfing) host at the ferry station in Dar and went to the island together. He was conveniently visiting friends in town. I only ended up staying with him for one night but I'll save that for the next entry.
Sunday, February 12, 2012
Saturday, February 4, 2012
Vic Falls - Days 16-18
Sorry I've been inactive for the past couple of days but internet hasn't been the most accessible. My hosts' home is a couple of miles from town and I've been too lazy to walk that in the African sun.
But to recap the last couple of days.
I went to Victoria Falls on Thursday morning and it was nothing short of extraordinary. The locals call it Mosi-oa-Tunya which means "the smoke that thunders," and I must say that's a much more appropriate name. My host suggested I take a rain coat and in my mind I was expecting certain parts to be misty. On the contrary, it was more like a downpour - from the water/mist erupting from the falls. The national park was really well organized, albeit a bit expensive ($30), and had a well laid out path with designated viewpoints. It starts with a statue of Dr. David Livingstone, who discovered the falls, and guides you along the Zimbabwean side all the way to the famous bridge that connects Zimbabwe and Zambia. I suppose it's more infamous these days since the bungee accident a couple of weeks ago, but it opened again a couple of days ago with brand new equipment from the US.
I decided to forgo the bungee experience but did get my share of adrenaline by whitewater rafting on the Zambezi river yesterday and my muscles are still feeling the burn today. The rating guide picked us up around 7am and we went through a safety debriefing and signed a indemnity waiver. Did I mention my travel insurance doesn't cover adventure sports?
The huge overland truck drove the guides and 7 rafters down river a few kilometers to the launching site where we geared up and made our descent into the gorge via a steep and slightly muddy trail. Coming back up was even more fun -_- Once in the water, we practiced a few maneuvers and took off for the first rapid. Foolishly, I thought I would be able to keep my glasses on since the helmet was so tight but it came flying off (and luckily landing in my lap) during the first rapid. Off they came and I went the rest of the trip sans glasses and in a slightly dreamlike haze. Perhaps it was a good thing I couldn't see the waves coming clearly :) We made it through the first few rapids intact and rapid 16 or "The Terminator" was where it all ended. Since there were 7 people, one person had to take turns sitting in the front of the raft and I was lucky enough to be that person during "The Terminator." I really wish I could see video footage of this because I only recall being pummeled by rapids and then launching into the air all the whist holding on to the raft for dear life. Awesome experience although mighty scary at the time. Is that what it feels like to be in a washing machine?
My internet session is running low so I'll cut this short. But altogether, we went through 14 rapids and the trip took about half day. The climb up the gorge was grueling and I almost considered swallowing my shame and generously tipping a porter to carry me up. Not really but the thought did cross my mind.
Anyway, tomorrow I head for Zanzibar via Lusaka but I've yet to find a host. So maybe it'll be a hostel or I'll just go all the way through to Dar es Salaam. Expect another update in 2-3 days :)
But to recap the last couple of days.
I went to Victoria Falls on Thursday morning and it was nothing short of extraordinary. The locals call it Mosi-oa-Tunya which means "the smoke that thunders," and I must say that's a much more appropriate name. My host suggested I take a rain coat and in my mind I was expecting certain parts to be misty. On the contrary, it was more like a downpour - from the water/mist erupting from the falls. The national park was really well organized, albeit a bit expensive ($30), and had a well laid out path with designated viewpoints. It starts with a statue of Dr. David Livingstone, who discovered the falls, and guides you along the Zimbabwean side all the way to the famous bridge that connects Zimbabwe and Zambia. I suppose it's more infamous these days since the bungee accident a couple of weeks ago, but it opened again a couple of days ago with brand new equipment from the US.
I decided to forgo the bungee experience but did get my share of adrenaline by whitewater rafting on the Zambezi river yesterday and my muscles are still feeling the burn today. The rating guide picked us up around 7am and we went through a safety debriefing and signed a indemnity waiver. Did I mention my travel insurance doesn't cover adventure sports?
The huge overland truck drove the guides and 7 rafters down river a few kilometers to the launching site where we geared up and made our descent into the gorge via a steep and slightly muddy trail. Coming back up was even more fun -_- Once in the water, we practiced a few maneuvers and took off for the first rapid. Foolishly, I thought I would be able to keep my glasses on since the helmet was so tight but it came flying off (and luckily landing in my lap) during the first rapid. Off they came and I went the rest of the trip sans glasses and in a slightly dreamlike haze. Perhaps it was a good thing I couldn't see the waves coming clearly :) We made it through the first few rapids intact and rapid 16 or "The Terminator" was where it all ended. Since there were 7 people, one person had to take turns sitting in the front of the raft and I was lucky enough to be that person during "The Terminator." I really wish I could see video footage of this because I only recall being pummeled by rapids and then launching into the air all the whist holding on to the raft for dear life. Awesome experience although mighty scary at the time. Is that what it feels like to be in a washing machine?
My internet session is running low so I'll cut this short. But altogether, we went through 14 rapids and the trip took about half day. The climb up the gorge was grueling and I almost considered swallowing my shame and generously tipping a porter to carry me up. Not really but the thought did cross my mind.
Anyway, tomorrow I head for Zanzibar via Lusaka but I've yet to find a host. So maybe it'll be a hostel or I'll just go all the way through to Dar es Salaam. Expect another update in 2-3 days :)
Wednesday, February 1, 2012
Vic Falls - Day 15
Made it to Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe, but yet to see the actual waterfall itself. That's on the agenda for tomorrow.
Last I posted was in Bulawayo waiting for the train. I have a confession to make...I stumbled upon a movie theater and watched "The Change Up" in order to pass the time. Not exactly Oscar worthy but entertaining enough and completely made me forget I was in Africa for 2 hours.
One thing that seems to accompany traveling in a third world country is attention from locals - and often times unwanted attention. I spent the majority of the afternoon talking to random people who wanted to strike up conversation. Some were just being friendly, others were shopping for a wife, and I'm sure there was a con man or two. But I was just waiting for the train and didn't plan on going anywhere so I just went along with it and closely guarded my stuff. As I was waiting, the station security manager called me into his office. I thought I was in trouble...but no, he just wanted to talk.
The train ride itself passed by really quickly. Took off around 7:30pm as scheduled and got in around 10am. I bought a first class ticket ($12) and had the compartment to myself. Unfortunately (or fortunately), the lights on the train weren't operating so I just made the fold down bed and crashed. I think I was so tired from lack of sleep and entertaining Zimbabweans that I slept nearly the whole way.
Found my hosts' home but they were out and the housekeeper let me in. It's a large yet very simple home located on the edge of town. I had no idea how anything is laid out so I just stayed put and cleaned up a bit. They came home briefly and I hitched a ride into town. I can't really get a sense of their vibe, but I feel a bit out of place in their home. So maybe I'll make this shorter than anticipated. They own a hair/wig shop in town and also run a travel agency out back. Maybe I'll book a white water rafting trip with them?
Last I posted was in Bulawayo waiting for the train. I have a confession to make...I stumbled upon a movie theater and watched "The Change Up" in order to pass the time. Not exactly Oscar worthy but entertaining enough and completely made me forget I was in Africa for 2 hours.
One thing that seems to accompany traveling in a third world country is attention from locals - and often times unwanted attention. I spent the majority of the afternoon talking to random people who wanted to strike up conversation. Some were just being friendly, others were shopping for a wife, and I'm sure there was a con man or two. But I was just waiting for the train and didn't plan on going anywhere so I just went along with it and closely guarded my stuff. As I was waiting, the station security manager called me into his office. I thought I was in trouble...but no, he just wanted to talk.
The train ride itself passed by really quickly. Took off around 7:30pm as scheduled and got in around 10am. I bought a first class ticket ($12) and had the compartment to myself. Unfortunately (or fortunately), the lights on the train weren't operating so I just made the fold down bed and crashed. I think I was so tired from lack of sleep and entertaining Zimbabweans that I slept nearly the whole way.
Found my hosts' home but they were out and the housekeeper let me in. It's a large yet very simple home located on the edge of town. I had no idea how anything is laid out so I just stayed put and cleaned up a bit. They came home briefly and I hitched a ride into town. I can't really get a sense of their vibe, but I feel a bit out of place in their home. So maybe I'll make this shorter than anticipated. They own a hair/wig shop in town and also run a travel agency out back. Maybe I'll book a white water rafting trip with them?
Tuesday, January 31, 2012
South Africa wrap up
Now that I've officially exited the South African border, it might be time for a summary of my first country on this trip.
I can't claim to understand the country and its problems, and I've only spoken in depth with white South Africans, and that's only 10% of the story.
- There's a HUGE discrepancy between the haves and have nots. I really got a taste of this in Joburg when I went through the township and shanty towns in the morning and then Darryl took me for a drive through the Hyde Park neighborhood with walls so tall you can't see over them.
- South Africa is unique in that it has affirmative action for the majority of the people. About 90% are black and 10% are white. After apartheid, the government seems to have overcompensated a bit by putting in place policies such as "Black Economic Empowerment" that put black Africans into high level positions. However, they were ill-equipped to do these jobs...according to many.
- It's impossible for a white South African, especially white man, to get a job in government.
- The education system is messed up. Some public schools have class sizes over 100 or even 150 students. Children basically sit around under the tree all day waiting for their few minutes of actual class time. One mother (black) I spoke with said they should bring back the white people to run the schools because they knew what they were doing. One retired principal volunteered his services for free and was rejected because he's white.
- AIDS is rampant. A doctor told me infection rate is over 40% in the country, and his medical ward is over 90%. He wants to immigrate to Canada because he wants to get away from all the AIDS exposure and he can't wait for the day when he doesn't have to carry a gun with him at all times.
- A lot of white South Africans have gone to Australia or Canada or the UK but there are also many who are fiercely patriotic and would never leave their land. But then again, they are the ones who live in nice homes and employ housekeepers and gardeners.
I can't claim to understand the country and its problems, and I've only spoken in depth with white South Africans, and that's only 10% of the story.
- There's a HUGE discrepancy between the haves and have nots. I really got a taste of this in Joburg when I went through the township and shanty towns in the morning and then Darryl took me for a drive through the Hyde Park neighborhood with walls so tall you can't see over them.
- South Africa is unique in that it has affirmative action for the majority of the people. About 90% are black and 10% are white. After apartheid, the government seems to have overcompensated a bit by putting in place policies such as "Black Economic Empowerment" that put black Africans into high level positions. However, they were ill-equipped to do these jobs...according to many.
- It's impossible for a white South African, especially white man, to get a job in government.
- The education system is messed up. Some public schools have class sizes over 100 or even 150 students. Children basically sit around under the tree all day waiting for their few minutes of actual class time. One mother (black) I spoke with said they should bring back the white people to run the schools because they knew what they were doing. One retired principal volunteered his services for free and was rejected because he's white.
- AIDS is rampant. A doctor told me infection rate is over 40% in the country, and his medical ward is over 90%. He wants to immigrate to Canada because he wants to get away from all the AIDS exposure and he can't wait for the day when he doesn't have to carry a gun with him at all times.
- A lot of white South Africans have gone to Australia or Canada or the UK but there are also many who are fiercely patriotic and would never leave their land. But then again, they are the ones who live in nice homes and employ housekeepers and gardeners.
Transit - Days 13-14
I've arrived at Bulawayo, Zimbabwe after 24 exhausting hours and still another 24 to go.
To catch everyone up, my last night in Clarens with Francois and Gerrit was amazing. They invited several of their friends over for what was supposed to be a simple braai. But of course, with an executive chef at the helm, it turned into this elaborate affair with multiple side dishes, impeccable presentation, and candle lit table. I swear my stomach has shrunk already because I could only put down one plate and half of my dessert...needless to say, I was devastated.
The next day Gerrit dropped me off at Qwa Qwa so I could catch a minibus taxi to Joburg. That was a pleasant surprise to me because there are multiple in a day and a bit cheaper than the long distance buses. However, they're not air conditioned so we had to crack the windows a bit and after 4 hours, my face was grimy like no other.
The timing actually worked out pretty well because by the time I arrived in Joburg, purchased my tickets, grabbed something to eat, and hit the internet cafe, it was time to board my overnight bus to Bulawayo. I "splurged" and went with the pricier and more comfortable bus, but was assigned a seat in the front row. Thought that would be a good thing but the drivers were playing music and chatting all through the night! The bus and its 50 or so passengers arrived at the border crossing at 1am where we all shuffled off the bus and through a tent (a la refugee camp) to get stamped out of South Africa. Then we boarded the bus again, drove 1km or so and did the same thing again at the Zimbabwe entry point. No exaggeration...this whole process took 3 hours. The border entry was easy enough I suppose. One person asked questions, another took my $30 for the visa and wrote out the receipt, and yet another issued the visa. I was looking forward to boarding the bus and getting some sleep, but little did I know, that was only the beginning. When we got back to the bus, everyone had to remove their luggage and open everything for inspection and customs declaration - all 50 of us. They didn't really give me any trouble and exasperatedly said, "Just keep the form" when I indicated I had nothing to declare. The entire procedure took so long because some guys refused to pay taxes on goods imported and the bus can't leave until that was sorted out. Yea thanks.
Despite the hassle and inefficiency, I can't deny the kindness of the people I've encountered. The guy who sat next to me actually volunteered to drive me from the bus stop to the train station this morning. Every time I ask for directions, the people go out of their way to help and maybe even accompany you for a bit. They smile and they stare, and sometimes both at once.
I got my ticket for Vic Falls tonight, stored my bag, and walked around town a bit. It really is the pits... There's just nothing aesthetically pleasing about this place. The buildings are dilapidated, the store shelves are half empty, all the products look like they're from the 80s or 90s and the prices are inflated. By the way, Zimbabwe uses US dollars and also the South African Rand as their currency. BUT they only seem to have US paper bills. So anything smaller than one US dollar...they'll use Rands. I bought lunch for $2.50 and got back $17 US and R4. I guess it works.
I ate lunch by the side of the road. It was sadza (think polenta) and beef, with a side of people watching. Everything is still similar to South Africa, but obviously functioning on less resources. The older women walk around dressed in skirts and blazers and hats despite the heat. The younger guys are either in business casual or hip hop apparel. The mothers tie babies to their backs using a towel (which does not look comfortable for the babies). And the fruit sellers use a water bottle with holes punched into the cap to wash off fruit as people purchase them. So far, it seems like a laid back and calm country. The media has made Zimbabwe out to be a nightmare and I'm sure it is nothing but difficult for the people living here...but for me just passing through...it's not so bad.
To catch everyone up, my last night in Clarens with Francois and Gerrit was amazing. They invited several of their friends over for what was supposed to be a simple braai. But of course, with an executive chef at the helm, it turned into this elaborate affair with multiple side dishes, impeccable presentation, and candle lit table. I swear my stomach has shrunk already because I could only put down one plate and half of my dessert...needless to say, I was devastated.
The next day Gerrit dropped me off at Qwa Qwa so I could catch a minibus taxi to Joburg. That was a pleasant surprise to me because there are multiple in a day and a bit cheaper than the long distance buses. However, they're not air conditioned so we had to crack the windows a bit and after 4 hours, my face was grimy like no other.
The timing actually worked out pretty well because by the time I arrived in Joburg, purchased my tickets, grabbed something to eat, and hit the internet cafe, it was time to board my overnight bus to Bulawayo. I "splurged" and went with the pricier and more comfortable bus, but was assigned a seat in the front row. Thought that would be a good thing but the drivers were playing music and chatting all through the night! The bus and its 50 or so passengers arrived at the border crossing at 1am where we all shuffled off the bus and through a tent (a la refugee camp) to get stamped out of South Africa. Then we boarded the bus again, drove 1km or so and did the same thing again at the Zimbabwe entry point. No exaggeration...this whole process took 3 hours. The border entry was easy enough I suppose. One person asked questions, another took my $30 for the visa and wrote out the receipt, and yet another issued the visa. I was looking forward to boarding the bus and getting some sleep, but little did I know, that was only the beginning. When we got back to the bus, everyone had to remove their luggage and open everything for inspection and customs declaration - all 50 of us. They didn't really give me any trouble and exasperatedly said, "Just keep the form" when I indicated I had nothing to declare. The entire procedure took so long because some guys refused to pay taxes on goods imported and the bus can't leave until that was sorted out. Yea thanks.
Despite the hassle and inefficiency, I can't deny the kindness of the people I've encountered. The guy who sat next to me actually volunteered to drive me from the bus stop to the train station this morning. Every time I ask for directions, the people go out of their way to help and maybe even accompany you for a bit. They smile and they stare, and sometimes both at once.
I got my ticket for Vic Falls tonight, stored my bag, and walked around town a bit. It really is the pits... There's just nothing aesthetically pleasing about this place. The buildings are dilapidated, the store shelves are half empty, all the products look like they're from the 80s or 90s and the prices are inflated. By the way, Zimbabwe uses US dollars and also the South African Rand as their currency. BUT they only seem to have US paper bills. So anything smaller than one US dollar...they'll use Rands. I bought lunch for $2.50 and got back $17 US and R4. I guess it works.
I ate lunch by the side of the road. It was sadza (think polenta) and beef, with a side of people watching. Everything is still similar to South Africa, but obviously functioning on less resources. The older women walk around dressed in skirts and blazers and hats despite the heat. The younger guys are either in business casual or hip hop apparel. The mothers tie babies to their backs using a towel (which does not look comfortable for the babies). And the fruit sellers use a water bottle with holes punched into the cap to wash off fruit as people purchase them. So far, it seems like a laid back and calm country. The media has made Zimbabwe out to be a nightmare and I'm sure it is nothing but difficult for the people living here...but for me just passing through...it's not so bad.
Sunday, January 29, 2012
Clarens - Days 11-12
The past three days have felt like a mountain retreat. On Saturday Francois had to run some errands and dropped me off once again in Clarens. It was a complete 180 from my first introduction to the town on Thursday night. All the shops were open and buzzing with people. I've promised myself not to buy anything at this point so it was really nice to just browse. Although I did buy some gourmet chocolates and such for my dessert loving hosts.
They had a dinner party to attend so I stayed home alone and watched the Travel Channel, which btw actually shows all travel related programs unlike the US. Saw a preview for a show called "Third Class Traveler" about this guy backpacking everywhere and sleeping on couches ;) Oh I also docked my iPod on their sound system and had a poor man's karaoke night.
Today I did another short hike to the overhanging caves behind the hotel. It wasn't as physically demanding as climbing the buttress but really required you to be surefooted. On both hikes, I was out for about an hour and half and didn't spot a single soul. I suppose that's nice but the whole time I remembered my hosts saying there are puff adders and spitting cobras in this region. Thankfully no encounters today and I'm sure I was just being paranoid.
They have invited their friends over for a braai tonight so the carnivore in me can rejoice.
Tomorrow I will leave here and be on the road for two full days and nights so probably no more blog updates until then. Next stop: Zimbabwe and Victoria Falls.
They had a dinner party to attend so I stayed home alone and watched the Travel Channel, which btw actually shows all travel related programs unlike the US. Saw a preview for a show called "Third Class Traveler" about this guy backpacking everywhere and sleeping on couches ;) Oh I also docked my iPod on their sound system and had a poor man's karaoke night.
Today I did another short hike to the overhanging caves behind the hotel. It wasn't as physically demanding as climbing the buttress but really required you to be surefooted. On both hikes, I was out for about an hour and half and didn't spot a single soul. I suppose that's nice but the whole time I remembered my hosts saying there are puff adders and spitting cobras in this region. Thankfully no encounters today and I'm sure I was just being paranoid.
They have invited their friends over for a braai tonight so the carnivore in me can rejoice.
Tomorrow I will leave here and be on the road for two full days and nights so probably no more blog updates until then. Next stop: Zimbabwe and Victoria Falls.
Friday, January 27, 2012
Clarens/Golden Gate National Park - Days 8-10
Yet another iPhone update.
It was a quick visit to Joburg, but quite lovely. I basically only stayed for one full day and saw the Apartheid Museum and Soweto Township. My hosts insisted I take the tour because Soweto isn't safe to explore on its own. Perhaps that's true but the tour itself wasn't mindblowing and put quite a dent in my budget. Still it was nice to see a place of such historical significance and how some of the poor and middle class live.
That evening Darryl was kind enough to make a traditional South African dish called bobuti which was a baked minced meat dish with dried fruit and eggs. I, of course, found it delicious and swore I would make it when I get home. So Darryl's job in a few months is to translate the recipe from Afrikaans and email it to me :)
The following day was the epitome or travel. Got up at 5:30am to make the 6:30 bus to Harrismith. It is only about three hours from Joburg but took almost six because it's public transport and we had to wait at certain stops. In Harrismith the bus dropped me off at a gas station by the side of the road and I was clueless as to where to find local transport. After asking three people, I found the taxi rank and found a minibus taxi to Qwa Qwa (great name ay?) which I thought was close to the Golden Gate Hotel. Not quite. After a 30 min ride to the Qwa Qwa taxi rank I found myself stranded again. Taxi ranks are notoriously chaotic and known to be dodgy so I really want to stay there for long. A kind taxi driver helped me locate a minibus driver who was willing to drop me off at the hotel but I had to wait for two hours. Seeing as I had no other choice (except to pay 20x that price for a personal taxi), wait was what I did. So by the time I arrived at my hosts' place it was almost 4pm.
My hosts are Francois and his partner Gerrit. It's like a gay tour of South Africa :) They are the executive chef and hotel manager at a nice hotel in the national park, respectively. Their home is on the hotel premises and has a tremendous view of the park! I really lucked out because all I wanted after hopping from city to city was to get away from civilization a bit and relax. I couldn't ask for a better place and more laid back hosts.
Nearly by Clarens is the "art capital" of South Africa and is teaming with little independent galleries and shops. Got a glimpse of it last night when Francois went into town for yoga but most of the places were closed.
Today I plan to hike a bit, chilax, and take in the gorgeous scenery.
It was a quick visit to Joburg, but quite lovely. I basically only stayed for one full day and saw the Apartheid Museum and Soweto Township. My hosts insisted I take the tour because Soweto isn't safe to explore on its own. Perhaps that's true but the tour itself wasn't mindblowing and put quite a dent in my budget. Still it was nice to see a place of such historical significance and how some of the poor and middle class live.
That evening Darryl was kind enough to make a traditional South African dish called bobuti which was a baked minced meat dish with dried fruit and eggs. I, of course, found it delicious and swore I would make it when I get home. So Darryl's job in a few months is to translate the recipe from Afrikaans and email it to me :)
The following day was the epitome or travel. Got up at 5:30am to make the 6:30 bus to Harrismith. It is only about three hours from Joburg but took almost six because it's public transport and we had to wait at certain stops. In Harrismith the bus dropped me off at a gas station by the side of the road and I was clueless as to where to find local transport. After asking three people, I found the taxi rank and found a minibus taxi to Qwa Qwa (great name ay?) which I thought was close to the Golden Gate Hotel. Not quite. After a 30 min ride to the Qwa Qwa taxi rank I found myself stranded again. Taxi ranks are notoriously chaotic and known to be dodgy so I really want to stay there for long. A kind taxi driver helped me locate a minibus driver who was willing to drop me off at the hotel but I had to wait for two hours. Seeing as I had no other choice (except to pay 20x that price for a personal taxi), wait was what I did. So by the time I arrived at my hosts' place it was almost 4pm.
My hosts are Francois and his partner Gerrit. It's like a gay tour of South Africa :) They are the executive chef and hotel manager at a nice hotel in the national park, respectively. Their home is on the hotel premises and has a tremendous view of the park! I really lucked out because all I wanted after hopping from city to city was to get away from civilization a bit and relax. I couldn't ask for a better place and more laid back hosts.
Nearly by Clarens is the "art capital" of South Africa and is teaming with little independent galleries and shops. Got a glimpse of it last night when Francois went into town for yoga but most of the places were closed.
Today I plan to hike a bit, chilax, and take in the gorgeous scenery.
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