Transit - Days 13-14

I've arrived at Bulawayo, Zimbabwe after 24 exhausting hours and still another 24 to go.

To catch everyone up, my last night in Clarens with Francois and Gerrit was amazing. They invited several of their friends over for what was supposed to be a simple braai. But of course, with an executive chef at the helm, it turned into this elaborate affair with multiple side dishes, impeccable presentation, and candle lit table. I swear my stomach has shrunk already because I could only put down one plate and half of my dessert...needless to say, I was devastated.

The next day Gerrit dropped me off at Qwa Qwa so I could catch a minibus taxi to Joburg. That was a pleasant surprise to me because there are multiple in a day and a bit cheaper than the long distance buses. However, they're not air conditioned so we had to crack the windows a bit and after 4 hours, my face was grimy like no other.

The timing actually worked out pretty well because by the time I arrived in Joburg, purchased my tickets, grabbed something to eat, and hit the internet cafe, it was time to board my overnight bus to Bulawayo. I "splurged" and went with the pricier and more comfortable bus, but was assigned a seat in the front row. Thought that would be a good thing but the drivers were playing music and chatting all through the night! The bus and its 50 or so passengers arrived at the border crossing at 1am where we all shuffled off the bus and through a tent (a la refugee camp) to get stamped out of South Africa. Then we boarded the bus again, drove 1km or so and did the same thing again at the Zimbabwe entry point. No exaggeration...this whole process took 3 hours. The border entry was easy enough I suppose. One person asked questions, another took my $30 for the visa and wrote out the receipt, and yet another issued the visa. I was looking forward to boarding the bus and getting some sleep, but little did I know, that was only the beginning. When we got back to the bus, everyone had to remove their luggage and open everything for inspection and customs declaration - all 50 of us. They didn't really give me any trouble and exasperatedly said, "Just keep the form" when I indicated I had nothing to declare. The entire procedure took so long because some guys refused to pay taxes on goods imported and the bus can't leave until that was sorted out. Yea thanks.

Despite the hassle and inefficiency, I can't deny the kindness of the people I've encountered. The guy who sat next to me actually volunteered to drive me from the bus stop to the train station this morning. Every time I ask for directions, the people go out of their way to help and maybe even accompany you for a bit. They smile and they stare, and sometimes both at once.

I got my ticket for Vic Falls tonight, stored my bag, and walked around town a bit. It really is the pits... There's just nothing aesthetically pleasing about this place. The buildings are dilapidated, the store shelves are half empty, all the products look like they're from the 80s or 90s and the prices are inflated. By the way, Zimbabwe uses US dollars and also the South African Rand as their currency. BUT they only seem to have US paper bills. So anything smaller than one US dollar...they'll use Rands. I bought lunch for $2.50 and got back $17 US and R4. I guess it works.


I ate lunch by the side of the road. It was sadza (think polenta) and beef, with a side of people watching. Everything is still similar to South Africa, but obviously functioning on less resources. The older women walk around dressed in skirts and blazers and hats despite the heat. The younger guys are either in business casual or hip hop apparel. The mothers tie babies to their backs using a towel (which does not look comfortable for the babies). And the fruit sellers use a water bottle with holes punched into the cap to wash off fruit as people purchase them. So far, it seems like a laid back and calm country. The media has made Zimbabwe out to be a nightmare and I'm sure it is nothing but difficult for the people living here...but for me just passing through...it's not so bad.