I'm back from safari y'all~ What an amazing experience!
The 3 day safari I had purchased originally didn't include the Serengeti but the travel gods must have been looking out for me, because due to last minute changes, I got to spend 2 days in Serengeti and 1 day in Ngorongoro. The three other travelers I was originally grouped with got food poisoning and had to cancel at the last minute :( so I was re-routed and placed with another group. For the past three days, I was with a Swedish couple, a lady from Zanzibar and her penpal friend from Japan.
Safari is almost entirely based on luck and we were fortunate most of the time because we saw everything in the " big 5" and thensome. I've heard stories of people driving around for days in the Serengeti without seeing any animals. As the guide says, "This isn't a zoo." So true.
Every morning we'd wake around 5:30am and either go straight for a game drive or eat breakfast before heading out. The first two days we spent time in Serengeti, which means "endless plains" in the Masai language. We didn't see any animals for the first couple of hours so everyone was in low spirits. But the thing about being on safari is, as soon as you see one animal...that all changes. Even though we've all seen the animals in zoos, there's something about being guests in their territory and seeing them in their natural habitat. We saw elephants, giraffes, zebras, gazelles, ostriches, buffalos, wildebeests by the dozens or hundreds. Saw a few lions as well, including a couple that were mating. I tried to respect their privacy but couldn't tear my eyes away. Saw one elusive leopard in a tree and one black rhino. Who knew black rhinos would be so hard to find?
The last day in Ngorogoro was probably my favorite because it's a crater, well technically a caldera so all the animals were somewhat contained. There were animals as far as the eyes can see!
Arrived back in Arusha last night and met up with a couple of local guides I had met before the safari. Tomorrow I'll take the bus to Nairobi and stay there for 3 days before flying to Addis. Today I will take the bus and try to see Kilimanjaro if the weather cooperates.
Monday, February 20, 2012
Thursday, February 16, 2012
Random observations
Now that I've left Zimbabwe and Zambia and almost through with Tanzania...I should probably sum up some of my thoughts.
- People here make do with very little.
- In the cities/towns, products (esp. eletronic appliances) are so overpriced it's unbelievable. I saw a little two burner piece of junk stove for nearly $400. In the villages, people mostly function on subsistence farming and selling lifestock. I was fortunate enough to visit a local village called Makunduchi located on the tip of Zanzibar island. Even though it's located in "paradise" the people live in mud huts and sleep on recycled sacks. And this I'm sure is the Hyatt compared to some of the other villages I saw from the bus window.
- Little kids play with trash to entertain themselves. One toddler was happy picking up a scrap of paper and let it go and trying to catch it. I also saw a pair of kids make "kites" out of discarded plastic bags and twine. It's both sad and comforting to see. At least despite their lack of material possessions, they still rely on their imagination.
- The mosquitos here are tiny but their bites are SO itchy.
- Everyone seems to have perfected the art of carrying things on their heads.
- People are very entrepreneurial - on a small scale. They'll run alongside buses with a bucket of tomatoes or a little basket of snacks.
I'm out of internet minutes again...more to come later.
- People here make do with very little.
- In the cities/towns, products (esp. eletronic appliances) are so overpriced it's unbelievable. I saw a little two burner piece of junk stove for nearly $400. In the villages, people mostly function on subsistence farming and selling lifestock. I was fortunate enough to visit a local village called Makunduchi located on the tip of Zanzibar island. Even though it's located in "paradise" the people live in mud huts and sleep on recycled sacks. And this I'm sure is the Hyatt compared to some of the other villages I saw from the bus window.
- Little kids play with trash to entertain themselves. One toddler was happy picking up a scrap of paper and let it go and trying to catch it. I also saw a pair of kids make "kites" out of discarded plastic bags and twine. It's both sad and comforting to see. At least despite their lack of material possessions, they still rely on their imagination.
- The mosquitos here are tiny but their bites are SO itchy.
- Everyone seems to have perfected the art of carrying things on their heads.
- People are very entrepreneurial - on a small scale. They'll run alongside buses with a bucket of tomatoes or a little basket of snacks.
I'm out of internet minutes again...more to come later.
Dar es Salaam and Arusha - Days 27 - 30
Yesterday marked my one month of travel. In some ways it has passed really quickly, but I also feel like I've been away for a year. There are definitely bits and pieces of my old life that I miss. i.e. bagels and cream cheese, watching random documentaries on Netflix, free water, AC, hot shower, unlimited and unrestricted texting/calling, etc... But I'm not complaining, it's been nothing short of incredible. How long I can sustain this is another question. Six months is no problem, but my CS host told me about this 21 year Vietnamese girl she met who has been traveling for a year and half and has another year to go. Hats off to her! I couldn't, or wouldn't, want to do this for two years. So don't worry mom, I'll return soon and live a "normal" life ;)
I think my last entry left off at Zanzibar and the last night of the festival. Once again, my friend snuck me in for the local rate (hallelujah) and I stayed until about 1am (early) watching performances from Zanzibari, South African, and Tanzanian artists. Let me just say this: these people can MOVE like no other. It was like attending an open-air strip club without the actual stripping. So on my last night in Zanzibar, I've left with images of gyrating hips.
The next day I caught a ferry back to Dar es Salaam and took a motorcycle taxi to my hosts' apartment. Well, she wasn't home at the time, so I stayed at a nearby upscale hotel per her instuctions. There I was sitting in the lobby with my grungy backpack and wild hair amidst businessmen in suits and vacationing Europeans. One of these is not like the others... I just sat and read the complimentary newspaper :)
My host, Gwynneth, picked me up after a couple of hours. She is Canadian of half Chinese and half Welsh descent, and has lived in various African countries for the past 8 years working for the UN and other NGOs. How this allows her to live in a penthouse apartment with a GIANT wrap-around veranda is beyond me, but I won't question it. I stayed there for two nights and caught a bus to Arusha yesterday. Again, a 9 hour turned 12 hour bus ride.
Arusha is located in northern Tanzania and is the base for most of the northern circuit safaris. About an hour away is the town of Moshi, which is the base for most Kilimanjaro hikes. I swallowed my budget and handed over four bills today for a three day safari leaving tomorrow. I won't go as far as the Serengeti but will visit the Ngorongoro Crater and a couple of other nearby national parks.
That means no internet or updates until next week.
I think my last entry left off at Zanzibar and the last night of the festival. Once again, my friend snuck me in for the local rate (hallelujah) and I stayed until about 1am (early) watching performances from Zanzibari, South African, and Tanzanian artists. Let me just say this: these people can MOVE like no other. It was like attending an open-air strip club without the actual stripping. So on my last night in Zanzibar, I've left with images of gyrating hips.
The next day I caught a ferry back to Dar es Salaam and took a motorcycle taxi to my hosts' apartment. Well, she wasn't home at the time, so I stayed at a nearby upscale hotel per her instuctions. There I was sitting in the lobby with my grungy backpack and wild hair amidst businessmen in suits and vacationing Europeans. One of these is not like the others... I just sat and read the complimentary newspaper :)
My host, Gwynneth, picked me up after a couple of hours. She is Canadian of half Chinese and half Welsh descent, and has lived in various African countries for the past 8 years working for the UN and other NGOs. How this allows her to live in a penthouse apartment with a GIANT wrap-around veranda is beyond me, but I won't question it. I stayed there for two nights and caught a bus to Arusha yesterday. Again, a 9 hour turned 12 hour bus ride.
Arusha is located in northern Tanzania and is the base for most of the northern circuit safaris. About an hour away is the town of Moshi, which is the base for most Kilimanjaro hikes. I swallowed my budget and handed over four bills today for a three day safari leaving tomorrow. I won't go as far as the Serengeti but will visit the Ngorongoro Crater and a couple of other nearby national parks.
That means no internet or updates until next week.
Sunday, February 12, 2012
Zanzibar - Days 23 - 26
I just found out that Whitney Houston died. Yea...a little behind on my news, but I can't believe it! I was just watching her music videos on the bus from Lusaka and thinking that a voice like that doesn't come along often. * sigh*
On a happier note...Zanzibar is pretty amazing. The place itself isn't as beautiful or exotic as I had anticipated, but the timing is perfect because this weekend is the "Sauti za Busara" music festival. It means "Songs of Wisdom" and is a four day music festival of traditional and pop African music from all over the continent. As a result, Stone Town is absolutely filled to the brim with people from near and far. I swear every nationality is represented here. I've been hanging out on and off with a Russian amateur photographer, an aspiring French actress, two Turks who work for the UN, a group of drunk Iranians, a Kenyan flight attendant, and countless local dudes.
My first night in Zanzibar was supposed to be spent with my host, Psam, at his apartment. However, his cousin also had 3 guys over plus the Russian...so it was 6 guys and myself and Psam thought I would be more comfortable at his sister's place. Very considerate of him, but little did I know, she lives about 20 minutes away in the countryside. I can't say it was four star accommodation but I really appreciated the opportunity to get a taste of genuine Zanzibari life. There are no showers here (at least not at his nor his sister's apartments). If I were to clean up, I"d have to ladle cold water from a huge bucket and pour it strategically and conservatively. I went to bed sans shower that night because I've yet to perfect the art of African baths.
The next day I decided to shift my base from Stone Town to a village on the east coast of Zanzibar called Jambiani for some sand and sea and relaxation, especially given the tumultuous transit from Vic Falls. I took the daladala, which is a common local form of transportation and resembles a huge covered pick up truck with built in benches. Once again, what I thought was a 60-90 min ride turned into about 140 minutes because it was constantly stopping to pick up and drop off passengers. Many of them had enormous cargo (i.e. sacks of flour, fire wood, dozens of bananas off the tree) that had to be secured to the top of the truck. Traveling in Africa is not easy and is not comfortable but I guess that's part of experiencing Africa in the raw; not the distilled and bottled kind...
Anyway, my two days in Jambiani was much needed. Give me a pat on the back because I actually spent money on a proper bungalow on the beach. It wasn't at all outrageous at less than $30 per night, but $30 goes a long way here. The room was right on the sand and during high tide, the waves come literally within 4 feet of the door. I borrowed two books from reception and did nothing but read, nap, and eat fruit. Oh, I did agree to visit a local village school with a guy named "Captain Fruit" who ended up wanting 30,000 T.Schillings and I laughed at him and gave him 5,000 which was more than enough to cover the cost of fuel. C'mon, do I look like I was born yesterday?
I came back to Stone Town yesterday and Psam helped me contact a French girl and we're sharing a little room together. A group of us went to the festival last night and our local friends managed to get in us at the local rather than the foreigner rate, which is 4x as much. So glad I went. Even though most of the audience couldn't understand the lyrics, everyone was dancing and having a ball. There was one artist from Nigeria, Nneka, who blew us all away. Look her up! Looking forward to another night of music and dancing~
On a happier note...Zanzibar is pretty amazing. The place itself isn't as beautiful or exotic as I had anticipated, but the timing is perfect because this weekend is the "Sauti za Busara" music festival. It means "Songs of Wisdom" and is a four day music festival of traditional and pop African music from all over the continent. As a result, Stone Town is absolutely filled to the brim with people from near and far. I swear every nationality is represented here. I've been hanging out on and off with a Russian amateur photographer, an aspiring French actress, two Turks who work for the UN, a group of drunk Iranians, a Kenyan flight attendant, and countless local dudes.
My first night in Zanzibar was supposed to be spent with my host, Psam, at his apartment. However, his cousin also had 3 guys over plus the Russian...so it was 6 guys and myself and Psam thought I would be more comfortable at his sister's place. Very considerate of him, but little did I know, she lives about 20 minutes away in the countryside. I can't say it was four star accommodation but I really appreciated the opportunity to get a taste of genuine Zanzibari life. There are no showers here (at least not at his nor his sister's apartments). If I were to clean up, I"d have to ladle cold water from a huge bucket and pour it strategically and conservatively. I went to bed sans shower that night because I've yet to perfect the art of African baths.
The next day I decided to shift my base from Stone Town to a village on the east coast of Zanzibar called Jambiani for some sand and sea and relaxation, especially given the tumultuous transit from Vic Falls. I took the daladala, which is a common local form of transportation and resembles a huge covered pick up truck with built in benches. Once again, what I thought was a 60-90 min ride turned into about 140 minutes because it was constantly stopping to pick up and drop off passengers. Many of them had enormous cargo (i.e. sacks of flour, fire wood, dozens of bananas off the tree) that had to be secured to the top of the truck. Traveling in Africa is not easy and is not comfortable but I guess that's part of experiencing Africa in the raw; not the distilled and bottled kind...
Anyway, my two days in Jambiani was much needed. Give me a pat on the back because I actually spent money on a proper bungalow on the beach. It wasn't at all outrageous at less than $30 per night, but $30 goes a long way here. The room was right on the sand and during high tide, the waves come literally within 4 feet of the door. I borrowed two books from reception and did nothing but read, nap, and eat fruit. Oh, I did agree to visit a local village school with a guy named "Captain Fruit" who ended up wanting 30,000 T.Schillings and I laughed at him and gave him 5,000 which was more than enough to cover the cost of fuel. C'mon, do I look like I was born yesterday?
I came back to Stone Town yesterday and Psam helped me contact a French girl and we're sharing a little room together. A group of us went to the festival last night and our local friends managed to get in us at the local rather than the foreigner rate, which is 4x as much. So glad I went. Even though most of the audience couldn't understand the lyrics, everyone was dancing and having a ball. There was one artist from Nigeria, Nneka, who blew us all away. Look her up! Looking forward to another night of music and dancing~
Transit - Days 19 - 22
I can't believe the last time I posted was in Vic Falls! Seems like ages ago. Too many things to report - so I'll break it up into two entries.
Right now I'm in Zanzibar but getting here was no easy feat. I left Vic Falls on a Sunday morning and didn't get here until Wednesday afternoon!
The short version: taxi to Zimbabwe and Zambia border, taxi across the border, taxi from the border to the bus station, wait 90 min for bus, 7 hour bus ride to Lusaka, Zambia, stranded at the bus station, go home with a random Chinese family, back to the bus station the next day, 35 hour bus ride to Dar es Salaam, Tanzania, spend the night in a YWCA, ferry to Zanzibar the next day.
I should re-title this blog "the kindness of strangers" because the people I've encountered along the way have been lifesavers. When I arrived in Lusaka and found out that the bus for Dar had already left, the entire staff of the bus company mobilized. One person suggested I sleep in the office, another said I could sleep on the bus, three people offered to take me home (which I politely declined), and finally the owner of the bus company called his Chinese bus supplier or what he called "a fellow countryman" to come get me and take me home. Looking back, it was a blessing that I missed the Dar bus because I would have gone insane if I were on a bus for almost 50 hours.
Remember the line in "Blood Diamonds" when Leo says "TIA: This is Africa?" That's precisely what was going through my mind as I boarded the bus for Dar. TIA for a traveler basically means transportation is never on time and there are always a couple of surprises. What was reported to be a 26-28 hour bus ride turned into 35. And this was by far the shittiest bus out of all the ones I've taken on this trip. No ac, 55 other people (with people in the aisle), and trapped in the back row between four men in a seat that doesn't recline. My heart sunk...and that was before the bus ever departed the station, haha.
Once the bus left, it flew. I didn't know whether to be grateful the bus was going so fast or scared for my life. Throughout the night, several times it swerved so much that I thought it might roll. Plus the bus felt like it was about to rattle and fall apart...and I felt the same way. But alas, we survived the night and spent about 5 hours idle at the border waiting for it to open and clear all the passengers.
I was finally able to sleep a bit during the second day, mainly from sheer exhaustion. All was going well until about 5 hours from Dar, and then I get sick. It must have been a combination of exhaustion, starvation, and dehydration (and maybe the blaring African music) but all of a sudden nausea hits and takes me down, haha. It's kinda humorous now that I look back on it. Me - sitting there with a plastic bag in my hands, dry heaving since I had nothing in my stomach. The best part? As I'm hunched over, the guy next to me taps my shoulder and points out the window. I look up and there are elephants and giraffes and zebras by the side of the road grazing. Gives a whole new meaning to TIA. It was spectacular; I just wish I could have made a better first impression.
We roll into Dar a little past 11pm. I had originally arranged a Couchsurfing host but I didn't want to bother her at such a late hour and decided to crash for the night at the YWCA. Never did a cold shower feel so good :)
The next day I met up with my Zanzibar CS (couchsurfing) host at the ferry station in Dar and went to the island together. He was conveniently visiting friends in town. I only ended up staying with him for one night but I'll save that for the next entry.
Right now I'm in Zanzibar but getting here was no easy feat. I left Vic Falls on a Sunday morning and didn't get here until Wednesday afternoon!
The short version: taxi to Zimbabwe and Zambia border, taxi across the border, taxi from the border to the bus station, wait 90 min for bus, 7 hour bus ride to Lusaka, Zambia, stranded at the bus station, go home with a random Chinese family, back to the bus station the next day, 35 hour bus ride to Dar es Salaam, Tanzania, spend the night in a YWCA, ferry to Zanzibar the next day.
I should re-title this blog "the kindness of strangers" because the people I've encountered along the way have been lifesavers. When I arrived in Lusaka and found out that the bus for Dar had already left, the entire staff of the bus company mobilized. One person suggested I sleep in the office, another said I could sleep on the bus, three people offered to take me home (which I politely declined), and finally the owner of the bus company called his Chinese bus supplier or what he called "a fellow countryman" to come get me and take me home. Looking back, it was a blessing that I missed the Dar bus because I would have gone insane if I were on a bus for almost 50 hours.
Remember the line in "Blood Diamonds" when Leo says "TIA: This is Africa?" That's precisely what was going through my mind as I boarded the bus for Dar. TIA for a traveler basically means transportation is never on time and there are always a couple of surprises. What was reported to be a 26-28 hour bus ride turned into 35. And this was by far the shittiest bus out of all the ones I've taken on this trip. No ac, 55 other people (with people in the aisle), and trapped in the back row between four men in a seat that doesn't recline. My heart sunk...and that was before the bus ever departed the station, haha.
Once the bus left, it flew. I didn't know whether to be grateful the bus was going so fast or scared for my life. Throughout the night, several times it swerved so much that I thought it might roll. Plus the bus felt like it was about to rattle and fall apart...and I felt the same way. But alas, we survived the night and spent about 5 hours idle at the border waiting for it to open and clear all the passengers.
I was finally able to sleep a bit during the second day, mainly from sheer exhaustion. All was going well until about 5 hours from Dar, and then I get sick. It must have been a combination of exhaustion, starvation, and dehydration (and maybe the blaring African music) but all of a sudden nausea hits and takes me down, haha. It's kinda humorous now that I look back on it. Me - sitting there with a plastic bag in my hands, dry heaving since I had nothing in my stomach. The best part? As I'm hunched over, the guy next to me taps my shoulder and points out the window. I look up and there are elephants and giraffes and zebras by the side of the road grazing. Gives a whole new meaning to TIA. It was spectacular; I just wish I could have made a better first impression.
We roll into Dar a little past 11pm. I had originally arranged a Couchsurfing host but I didn't want to bother her at such a late hour and decided to crash for the night at the YWCA. Never did a cold shower feel so good :)
The next day I met up with my Zanzibar CS (couchsurfing) host at the ferry station in Dar and went to the island together. He was conveniently visiting friends in town. I only ended up staying with him for one night but I'll save that for the next entry.
Saturday, February 4, 2012
Vic Falls - Days 16-18
Sorry I've been inactive for the past couple of days but internet hasn't been the most accessible. My hosts' home is a couple of miles from town and I've been too lazy to walk that in the African sun.
But to recap the last couple of days.
I went to Victoria Falls on Thursday morning and it was nothing short of extraordinary. The locals call it Mosi-oa-Tunya which means "the smoke that thunders," and I must say that's a much more appropriate name. My host suggested I take a rain coat and in my mind I was expecting certain parts to be misty. On the contrary, it was more like a downpour - from the water/mist erupting from the falls. The national park was really well organized, albeit a bit expensive ($30), and had a well laid out path with designated viewpoints. It starts with a statue of Dr. David Livingstone, who discovered the falls, and guides you along the Zimbabwean side all the way to the famous bridge that connects Zimbabwe and Zambia. I suppose it's more infamous these days since the bungee accident a couple of weeks ago, but it opened again a couple of days ago with brand new equipment from the US.
I decided to forgo the bungee experience but did get my share of adrenaline by whitewater rafting on the Zambezi river yesterday and my muscles are still feeling the burn today. The rating guide picked us up around 7am and we went through a safety debriefing and signed a indemnity waiver. Did I mention my travel insurance doesn't cover adventure sports?
The huge overland truck drove the guides and 7 rafters down river a few kilometers to the launching site where we geared up and made our descent into the gorge via a steep and slightly muddy trail. Coming back up was even more fun -_- Once in the water, we practiced a few maneuvers and took off for the first rapid. Foolishly, I thought I would be able to keep my glasses on since the helmet was so tight but it came flying off (and luckily landing in my lap) during the first rapid. Off they came and I went the rest of the trip sans glasses and in a slightly dreamlike haze. Perhaps it was a good thing I couldn't see the waves coming clearly :) We made it through the first few rapids intact and rapid 16 or "The Terminator" was where it all ended. Since there were 7 people, one person had to take turns sitting in the front of the raft and I was lucky enough to be that person during "The Terminator." I really wish I could see video footage of this because I only recall being pummeled by rapids and then launching into the air all the whist holding on to the raft for dear life. Awesome experience although mighty scary at the time. Is that what it feels like to be in a washing machine?
My internet session is running low so I'll cut this short. But altogether, we went through 14 rapids and the trip took about half day. The climb up the gorge was grueling and I almost considered swallowing my shame and generously tipping a porter to carry me up. Not really but the thought did cross my mind.
Anyway, tomorrow I head for Zanzibar via Lusaka but I've yet to find a host. So maybe it'll be a hostel or I'll just go all the way through to Dar es Salaam. Expect another update in 2-3 days :)
But to recap the last couple of days.
I went to Victoria Falls on Thursday morning and it was nothing short of extraordinary. The locals call it Mosi-oa-Tunya which means "the smoke that thunders," and I must say that's a much more appropriate name. My host suggested I take a rain coat and in my mind I was expecting certain parts to be misty. On the contrary, it was more like a downpour - from the water/mist erupting from the falls. The national park was really well organized, albeit a bit expensive ($30), and had a well laid out path with designated viewpoints. It starts with a statue of Dr. David Livingstone, who discovered the falls, and guides you along the Zimbabwean side all the way to the famous bridge that connects Zimbabwe and Zambia. I suppose it's more infamous these days since the bungee accident a couple of weeks ago, but it opened again a couple of days ago with brand new equipment from the US.
I decided to forgo the bungee experience but did get my share of adrenaline by whitewater rafting on the Zambezi river yesterday and my muscles are still feeling the burn today. The rating guide picked us up around 7am and we went through a safety debriefing and signed a indemnity waiver. Did I mention my travel insurance doesn't cover adventure sports?
The huge overland truck drove the guides and 7 rafters down river a few kilometers to the launching site where we geared up and made our descent into the gorge via a steep and slightly muddy trail. Coming back up was even more fun -_- Once in the water, we practiced a few maneuvers and took off for the first rapid. Foolishly, I thought I would be able to keep my glasses on since the helmet was so tight but it came flying off (and luckily landing in my lap) during the first rapid. Off they came and I went the rest of the trip sans glasses and in a slightly dreamlike haze. Perhaps it was a good thing I couldn't see the waves coming clearly :) We made it through the first few rapids intact and rapid 16 or "The Terminator" was where it all ended. Since there were 7 people, one person had to take turns sitting in the front of the raft and I was lucky enough to be that person during "The Terminator." I really wish I could see video footage of this because I only recall being pummeled by rapids and then launching into the air all the whist holding on to the raft for dear life. Awesome experience although mighty scary at the time. Is that what it feels like to be in a washing machine?
My internet session is running low so I'll cut this short. But altogether, we went through 14 rapids and the trip took about half day. The climb up the gorge was grueling and I almost considered swallowing my shame and generously tipping a porter to carry me up. Not really but the thought did cross my mind.
Anyway, tomorrow I head for Zanzibar via Lusaka but I've yet to find a host. So maybe it'll be a hostel or I'll just go all the way through to Dar es Salaam. Expect another update in 2-3 days :)
Wednesday, February 1, 2012
Vic Falls - Day 15
Made it to Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe, but yet to see the actual waterfall itself. That's on the agenda for tomorrow.
Last I posted was in Bulawayo waiting for the train. I have a confession to make...I stumbled upon a movie theater and watched "The Change Up" in order to pass the time. Not exactly Oscar worthy but entertaining enough and completely made me forget I was in Africa for 2 hours.
One thing that seems to accompany traveling in a third world country is attention from locals - and often times unwanted attention. I spent the majority of the afternoon talking to random people who wanted to strike up conversation. Some were just being friendly, others were shopping for a wife, and I'm sure there was a con man or two. But I was just waiting for the train and didn't plan on going anywhere so I just went along with it and closely guarded my stuff. As I was waiting, the station security manager called me into his office. I thought I was in trouble...but no, he just wanted to talk.
The train ride itself passed by really quickly. Took off around 7:30pm as scheduled and got in around 10am. I bought a first class ticket ($12) and had the compartment to myself. Unfortunately (or fortunately), the lights on the train weren't operating so I just made the fold down bed and crashed. I think I was so tired from lack of sleep and entertaining Zimbabweans that I slept nearly the whole way.
Found my hosts' home but they were out and the housekeeper let me in. It's a large yet very simple home located on the edge of town. I had no idea how anything is laid out so I just stayed put and cleaned up a bit. They came home briefly and I hitched a ride into town. I can't really get a sense of their vibe, but I feel a bit out of place in their home. So maybe I'll make this shorter than anticipated. They own a hair/wig shop in town and also run a travel agency out back. Maybe I'll book a white water rafting trip with them?
Last I posted was in Bulawayo waiting for the train. I have a confession to make...I stumbled upon a movie theater and watched "The Change Up" in order to pass the time. Not exactly Oscar worthy but entertaining enough and completely made me forget I was in Africa for 2 hours.
One thing that seems to accompany traveling in a third world country is attention from locals - and often times unwanted attention. I spent the majority of the afternoon talking to random people who wanted to strike up conversation. Some were just being friendly, others were shopping for a wife, and I'm sure there was a con man or two. But I was just waiting for the train and didn't plan on going anywhere so I just went along with it and closely guarded my stuff. As I was waiting, the station security manager called me into his office. I thought I was in trouble...but no, he just wanted to talk.
The train ride itself passed by really quickly. Took off around 7:30pm as scheduled and got in around 10am. I bought a first class ticket ($12) and had the compartment to myself. Unfortunately (or fortunately), the lights on the train weren't operating so I just made the fold down bed and crashed. I think I was so tired from lack of sleep and entertaining Zimbabweans that I slept nearly the whole way.
Found my hosts' home but they were out and the housekeeper let me in. It's a large yet very simple home located on the edge of town. I had no idea how anything is laid out so I just stayed put and cleaned up a bit. They came home briefly and I hitched a ride into town. I can't really get a sense of their vibe, but I feel a bit out of place in their home. So maybe I'll make this shorter than anticipated. They own a hair/wig shop in town and also run a travel agency out back. Maybe I'll book a white water rafting trip with them?
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