Saturday, January 21, 2012

Cape Town - Day 4

It's my fourth day and I now look Southeast Asian. I need some aloe cuz my face is on fire!

It's Saturday, and it means nothing to me because when you're on vacation, everyday is a Saturday! However it does mean that Emma doesn't have to work so she and I went to a weekly Saturday market held at the Old Biscuit Mill in the Woodstock neighborhood. That area is one of Cape Town's oldest neighborhoods and escaped the Group Areas Act during apartheid, so it's always been racially diverse. Some say it's gritty and dangerous, but during the daytime it's definitely very authentic and has loads of character. The market itself was buzzing with people and had several different sections with food, houseware, boutique clothing, etc... It was seriously so charming and aesthetically pleasing that I wanted to become Capetonian (?) right then and there. Let's talk about the food first shall we? Vendors abound with their homemade ice cream, cheeses, mushroom kebabs, salami, honey, olives, vinegar, pastries, brick oven pizzas, fresh seafood, etc... I settled on an almond croissant and coffee :) There were also dozens of private vendors and stores and I explored them all. Emma had to leave a little after 10am for band practice, so I said I'd stay behind and check out more stores. When you travel, it's really easy to get caught up in the sightseeing, so doing something like this makes you feel kind of "normal" again. Much appreciated.

After I left the Old Biscuit Mill, I caught my first minibus taxi into city center again. The minibus taxis I've been told are "not for the faint of heart." That means I was immediately interested, haha. Bungee jumping (esp. in Victoria Falls) is not my thing, but a crazy taxi ride I will take any day. Basically there's a minivan with four rows of seats and a sliding door that's intended to maybe hold a dozen people. The objective for them is to cram in around 20. There's a driver and a ticket guy who leans out the window and shouts out the destinations at people walking on the street. If you need a ride, you can also just hail them down. I managed to flag one down, get in, and ride the rest of the way on one butt cheek. I counted about 18 adults and 2 children in my van...not bad! The minibus dropped everyone off at the taxi stand in town, and I had no idea that place existed! There were rows of shops set up in basically storage lockers. The most interesting one I passed was a "photography studio" with a beach backdrop and a guy photographing a family of three holding an umbrella in his left hand and a digital point and shoot in his right. Fancy.

The rest of the day I spent walking up Long St. and Kloof St. and checking out some of the stores, and sat in a little cafe for 2 hours reading the local paper and sipping on mint water. Then my intention was to find a minibus up to Table Mountain cable car, but failed miserably and got slightly lost and ended up walking back to the minibus place via a nice shady park. Eventually managed to find a minibus willing to head that way and haggled on the price...I lost. But R20 ($2.50) really isn't a terrible hit to my budget.

Table Mountain National Park has a special during the summer months and the cable car is half price if you go after 6pm. Since the sun doesn't set until around 8pm, that was still plenty of time to hike a bit up top and get in some good pictures and catch the sunset. Unfortunately the sunset tonight was a bust but the sky was still a brilliant orange before the sun dipped into the clouds. By the time I got down the mountain it was already dark. No more minibuses and I was thinking of a way to get down. A young couple was getting in a taxi so I asked if they'd like to split it, which would at least get me in town. It turns out they were an American couple from California on their honeymoon. The guy is a Harvard Law graduate turned lawyer, and the girl is a Korean-American girl named Esther who went to Yale, lol. No we didn't introduce ourselves like "Hi, I'm Jing and I went to Harvard." It just came up.
Came back to an invitation to go clubbing in honor of Chinese New Year. Tempting, but pass.

Friday, January 20, 2012

Cape Town - Day 2-3

Time for another update :)

I've thankfully managed to cram quite a bit in to these past two days, and also met some cool people.

Emma was kind enough to drop me off in the center of town yesterday morning on her way to work. The original plan was to take the shuttle to the waterfront and catch the ferry to Robben Island, but since I got there so early, I was able to explore a bit on foot. There are several notable streets and areas in the city center, also known as the "City Bowl." Long Street is perhaps the most well-known and touristy. It's basically a street lined with boutique shops and cafes and restaurants. Some are quite modern and others more boho/kitschy. So I walked up and down that street and popped in to a few shops (no purchases of course).

Nearby there is a neighborhood called Bo Kaap which has many flat row houses painted in brilliant colors. I figured those would be quite photogenic, but unfortunately my lack of photographic skills doesn't do them justice.

By now it's about 10am and the shuttle bus from the city center to the waterfront has started. I make my way to the bus stand and pay my R8 ($1). The V&A Waterfront is a relatively new development with several shopping malls, restaurants, and is most importantly, the launching place of the Nelson Mandela Robben Island Museum and ferry. I've heard mixed reviews about the entire Robben Island experience but figured I should suck it up and pay the $30 to see where Nelson Mandela and other political prisoners were contained.

The ferry ride was about 30 min each way and once we arrived on the island, we were basically bused around like...well...inmates. But the tour guide was quite charming and we heard from an ex-prisoner and also an ex-warden.

That evening, I went to a nearby bar with Emma and David and some of her friends, who are awesome by the way :) I'm pretty sure I was the oldest one there, but who cares. I'm not sure if this is true of most South Africans, but this group sure loved their foosball. We played 10+ games in various configurations, haha. Try 4 on 4 when you get a chance (and try not to be the goal keeper)!

Today I took the MetroRail out to Simon's Town, which is a little over an hour away on the eastern side of the peninsula. The water from the Indian Ocean forms that bay so it's substantially warmer than the western side with the Atlantic water. I tried both today and it's quite noticeable. I bought a "tourist pass" for R30 ($4) which allowed me to hop off at some of the other stops along the way so I saw a bit of Muizenberg, Kalk Bay and Fish Hoek - just little resort/fishing towns. Simon's Town was worth a visit for me because that's where you can see African Penguins. Boulder Beach is about a 30 min walk from the Simon's Town rail station and since it's technically part of Table Mountain National Park, there's a R45 ($6) charge. There's a boardwalk portion that brings you by the sand dunes where you can see the penguins below. Then there is also a beach area that I nearly missed where you can actually get in the water and swim with the penguins. I managed to climb up on some boulders and perch myself there and wait patiently. After a couple of minutes, several penguins would waddle by with a foot of you and dive into the water. One actually came ashore from the water and shook water droplets all over my camera.

Tonight, again, the three of us went to Clifton beach to meet up with some of David's friends that he had previously met through Couchsurfing. Remember I mentioned he has managed to stay in Cape Town for nearly 4 months with 10 hosts and without paying a single night? That racks up a lot of friends as well. We all brought some food and had a picnic on the beach and watched the sundown and lit candles. Thankfully for the warm weather, the evenings are comfortable and breezy and we stayed almost until 10pm.

Exhausted and ready to sleep.

Wednesday, January 18, 2012

At last!

I've finally arrived in Cape Town at my Couchsurfing host's house after a 2 day stop in NYC, 7 hour flight to Frankfurt, 10 hour layover in Frankfurt, 11 hour flight to Cape Town and a miserable two hour long walk with my pack.

At first impression, Cape Town is gorgeous, sweltering, ethnically and socioeconomically diverse.

I arrived at in CPT airport a little after 10am and caught a direct airport shuttle to the city center (53 Rand, approx. $7). It must have been quite a recent addition to their public transportation system because it was pristine and quite modern (and my host confirmed later). From that short 15-20 minute ride, I could really see the disparity among the population. The bus passed by townships where homes were constructed basically out of metal sheets or even cardboard. There also seemed to be nicer townships where homes were set up in similar ways but constructed out of concrete. Hopefully I'll get to visit a township in the coming days and see them up close.

After the bus dropped us off in the city center, I had to walk around town a little bit with my luggage since my host wasn't going to be home until 2pm. Central Cape Town or "City Bowl" as they call it is quite happening. Several pedestrian streets with cafes and shops and independent vendors. It actually really reminded me of Boulder's Pearl Street but about 30 degrees hotter...

By the time I arrived at my host family's house, I was soaked with sweat, caked with dirt, and I even couldn't stand my own stench. What a first impression right? I apologized profusely, chit chatted for 2 minutes, and headed straight for the shower. At least now I'm feeling myself again, except for my sleep deprivation headache and my face that's already 2 shades darker.

My host, Emma, is also currently hosting another surfer from Argentina by way of Italy and Spain. He (David) has been surfing since September '11 on various couches around the city because he loves it here so much and never left. Now he is looking to get a work visa and find a job in Cape Town. But with a country that's facing 25% unemployment rate (so I read on the plane), that's presented quite a challenge.

Anyway, Emma and I took a little drive out to her mother's place in Camps Bay (on the Atlantic ocean) to visit some of her relatives who are here on holiday from London. The drive was gorgeous! From everywhere in the city Table Mountain is visible and all of a sudden we hit a bend and we're at the seaside and cliffs on the Atlantic Ocean. Her family owns a rental property a little ways from the beach and we said hi to everyone and sat by the pool until it was time to leave. As I type, David the semi-Italian is making yellow pepper and onion pasta for us. Not bad for a first day in Cape Town!

Friday, January 13, 2012

Gearing up




Here's a list of things I'll be bringing along with me on my six month journey :)

1. Eagle Creek backpack w/ detachable daypack. (No idea what the capacity is, but it's about the size of a small carry-on and plenty large enough)
2. Sony Nex5N camera and lens
3. Travel towel and toiletries (toothbrush, toothpaste, soap, sunscreen, floss, etc)
4. Journal
5. Backup pair of glasses and pair of sunglasses
6. Medicine and first aid supplies
7. Chargers and electrical outlet adapters
8. Travel documents, money, and credit/debit cards (damn the fees)
9. 2 long sleeve shirts
10. 2 quick dry short sleeve shirts
11. 2 pairs of convertible pants/shorts (found them around the house; who knew we had so many convertible pants?)
12. 1 pair of jeans (I don't care what others say about jeans being heavy and taking forever to dry, I can't go 6 months without wearing jeans. I just won't wash them...)
13. Lightweight jacket
14. Windbreaker/rain jacket
15. Pajamas
16. Sarong (<-- great multipurpose item)
17. Walking/hiking shoes (ended up not being the ones pictured)
18. Flip flops
18. Hat

Not pictured: socks, underwear, swimsuit, water bottle, iphone and some snacks


Wednesday, January 11, 2012

A new beginning

So this blog used to be titled "Random Musings" but I was far from a prolific blogger and allowed it to dwindle to one blog post a month.

Now that I'm embarking on this backpacking trip, I have given the blog a new title and hope to contribute and publish more frequently (although I'm completely at the mercy of internet availability).

I depart in 4 days and much of the trip is still up in the air, but I trust it'll be just fine :) Getting some of my gear together and will post once before I leave detailing everything I will bring with me for the six month journey.

Until then~

Tuesday, November 8, 2011

Yin and Yang of New York


















































One of a series of awesome pictures by photographer Stephen Wilkes of New York from day to night. Kind of like time lapse photography on steroids. The website described it as a 2-D version of time lapse video.

Flying Rhinos





















Mission to transfer endangered Black Rhinos to a secret location. Don't worry, they were a) blindfolded, b) asleep.