Sorry I've been inactive for the past couple of days but internet hasn't been the most accessible. My hosts' home is a couple of miles from town and I've been too lazy to walk that in the African sun.
But to recap the last couple of days.
I went to Victoria Falls on Thursday morning and it was nothing short of extraordinary. The locals call it Mosi-oa-Tunya which means "the smoke that thunders," and I must say that's a much more appropriate name. My host suggested I take a rain coat and in my mind I was expecting certain parts to be misty. On the contrary, it was more like a downpour - from the water/mist erupting from the falls. The national park was really well organized, albeit a bit expensive ($30), and had a well laid out path with designated viewpoints. It starts with a statue of Dr. David Livingstone, who discovered the falls, and guides you along the Zimbabwean side all the way to the famous bridge that connects Zimbabwe and Zambia. I suppose it's more infamous these days since the bungee accident a couple of weeks ago, but it opened again a couple of days ago with brand new equipment from the US.
I decided to forgo the bungee experience but did get my share of adrenaline by whitewater rafting on the Zambezi river yesterday and my muscles are still feeling the burn today. The rating guide picked us up around 7am and we went through a safety debriefing and signed a indemnity waiver. Did I mention my travel insurance doesn't cover adventure sports?
The huge overland truck drove the guides and 7 rafters down river a few kilometers to the launching site where we geared up and made our descent into the gorge via a steep and slightly muddy trail. Coming back up was even more fun -_- Once in the water, we practiced a few maneuvers and took off for the first rapid. Foolishly, I thought I would be able to keep my glasses on since the helmet was so tight but it came flying off (and luckily landing in my lap) during the first rapid. Off they came and I went the rest of the trip sans glasses and in a slightly dreamlike haze. Perhaps it was a good thing I couldn't see the waves coming clearly :) We made it through the first few rapids intact and rapid 16 or "The Terminator" was where it all ended. Since there were 7 people, one person had to take turns sitting in the front of the raft and I was lucky enough to be that person during "The Terminator." I really wish I could see video footage of this because I only recall being pummeled by rapids and then launching into the air all the whist holding on to the raft for dear life. Awesome experience although mighty scary at the time. Is that what it feels like to be in a washing machine?
My internet session is running low so I'll cut this short. But altogether, we went through 14 rapids and the trip took about half day. The climb up the gorge was grueling and I almost considered swallowing my shame and generously tipping a porter to carry me up. Not really but the thought did cross my mind.
Anyway, tomorrow I head for Zanzibar via Lusaka but I've yet to find a host. So maybe it'll be a hostel or I'll just go all the way through to Dar es Salaam. Expect another update in 2-3 days :)
Showing posts with label Zimbabwe. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Zimbabwe. Show all posts
Saturday, February 4, 2012
Wednesday, February 1, 2012
Vic Falls - Day 15
Made it to Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe, but yet to see the actual waterfall itself. That's on the agenda for tomorrow.
Last I posted was in Bulawayo waiting for the train. I have a confession to make...I stumbled upon a movie theater and watched "The Change Up" in order to pass the time. Not exactly Oscar worthy but entertaining enough and completely made me forget I was in Africa for 2 hours.
One thing that seems to accompany traveling in a third world country is attention from locals - and often times unwanted attention. I spent the majority of the afternoon talking to random people who wanted to strike up conversation. Some were just being friendly, others were shopping for a wife, and I'm sure there was a con man or two. But I was just waiting for the train and didn't plan on going anywhere so I just went along with it and closely guarded my stuff. As I was waiting, the station security manager called me into his office. I thought I was in trouble...but no, he just wanted to talk.
The train ride itself passed by really quickly. Took off around 7:30pm as scheduled and got in around 10am. I bought a first class ticket ($12) and had the compartment to myself. Unfortunately (or fortunately), the lights on the train weren't operating so I just made the fold down bed and crashed. I think I was so tired from lack of sleep and entertaining Zimbabweans that I slept nearly the whole way.
Found my hosts' home but they were out and the housekeeper let me in. It's a large yet very simple home located on the edge of town. I had no idea how anything is laid out so I just stayed put and cleaned up a bit. They came home briefly and I hitched a ride into town. I can't really get a sense of their vibe, but I feel a bit out of place in their home. So maybe I'll make this shorter than anticipated. They own a hair/wig shop in town and also run a travel agency out back. Maybe I'll book a white water rafting trip with them?
Last I posted was in Bulawayo waiting for the train. I have a confession to make...I stumbled upon a movie theater and watched "The Change Up" in order to pass the time. Not exactly Oscar worthy but entertaining enough and completely made me forget I was in Africa for 2 hours.
One thing that seems to accompany traveling in a third world country is attention from locals - and often times unwanted attention. I spent the majority of the afternoon talking to random people who wanted to strike up conversation. Some were just being friendly, others were shopping for a wife, and I'm sure there was a con man or two. But I was just waiting for the train and didn't plan on going anywhere so I just went along with it and closely guarded my stuff. As I was waiting, the station security manager called me into his office. I thought I was in trouble...but no, he just wanted to talk.
The train ride itself passed by really quickly. Took off around 7:30pm as scheduled and got in around 10am. I bought a first class ticket ($12) and had the compartment to myself. Unfortunately (or fortunately), the lights on the train weren't operating so I just made the fold down bed and crashed. I think I was so tired from lack of sleep and entertaining Zimbabweans that I slept nearly the whole way.
Found my hosts' home but they were out and the housekeeper let me in. It's a large yet very simple home located on the edge of town. I had no idea how anything is laid out so I just stayed put and cleaned up a bit. They came home briefly and I hitched a ride into town. I can't really get a sense of their vibe, but I feel a bit out of place in their home. So maybe I'll make this shorter than anticipated. They own a hair/wig shop in town and also run a travel agency out back. Maybe I'll book a white water rafting trip with them?
Tuesday, January 31, 2012
Transit - Days 13-14
I've arrived at Bulawayo, Zimbabwe after 24 exhausting hours and still another 24 to go.
To catch everyone up, my last night in Clarens with Francois and Gerrit was amazing. They invited several of their friends over for what was supposed to be a simple braai. But of course, with an executive chef at the helm, it turned into this elaborate affair with multiple side dishes, impeccable presentation, and candle lit table. I swear my stomach has shrunk already because I could only put down one plate and half of my dessert...needless to say, I was devastated.
The next day Gerrit dropped me off at Qwa Qwa so I could catch a minibus taxi to Joburg. That was a pleasant surprise to me because there are multiple in a day and a bit cheaper than the long distance buses. However, they're not air conditioned so we had to crack the windows a bit and after 4 hours, my face was grimy like no other.
The timing actually worked out pretty well because by the time I arrived in Joburg, purchased my tickets, grabbed something to eat, and hit the internet cafe, it was time to board my overnight bus to Bulawayo. I "splurged" and went with the pricier and more comfortable bus, but was assigned a seat in the front row. Thought that would be a good thing but the drivers were playing music and chatting all through the night! The bus and its 50 or so passengers arrived at the border crossing at 1am where we all shuffled off the bus and through a tent (a la refugee camp) to get stamped out of South Africa. Then we boarded the bus again, drove 1km or so and did the same thing again at the Zimbabwe entry point. No exaggeration...this whole process took 3 hours. The border entry was easy enough I suppose. One person asked questions, another took my $30 for the visa and wrote out the receipt, and yet another issued the visa. I was looking forward to boarding the bus and getting some sleep, but little did I know, that was only the beginning. When we got back to the bus, everyone had to remove their luggage and open everything for inspection and customs declaration - all 50 of us. They didn't really give me any trouble and exasperatedly said, "Just keep the form" when I indicated I had nothing to declare. The entire procedure took so long because some guys refused to pay taxes on goods imported and the bus can't leave until that was sorted out. Yea thanks.
Despite the hassle and inefficiency, I can't deny the kindness of the people I've encountered. The guy who sat next to me actually volunteered to drive me from the bus stop to the train station this morning. Every time I ask for directions, the people go out of their way to help and maybe even accompany you for a bit. They smile and they stare, and sometimes both at once.
I got my ticket for Vic Falls tonight, stored my bag, and walked around town a bit. It really is the pits... There's just nothing aesthetically pleasing about this place. The buildings are dilapidated, the store shelves are half empty, all the products look like they're from the 80s or 90s and the prices are inflated. By the way, Zimbabwe uses US dollars and also the South African Rand as their currency. BUT they only seem to have US paper bills. So anything smaller than one US dollar...they'll use Rands. I bought lunch for $2.50 and got back $17 US and R4. I guess it works.
I ate lunch by the side of the road. It was sadza (think polenta) and beef, with a side of people watching. Everything is still similar to South Africa, but obviously functioning on less resources. The older women walk around dressed in skirts and blazers and hats despite the heat. The younger guys are either in business casual or hip hop apparel. The mothers tie babies to their backs using a towel (which does not look comfortable for the babies). And the fruit sellers use a water bottle with holes punched into the cap to wash off fruit as people purchase them. So far, it seems like a laid back and calm country. The media has made Zimbabwe out to be a nightmare and I'm sure it is nothing but difficult for the people living here...but for me just passing through...it's not so bad.
To catch everyone up, my last night in Clarens with Francois and Gerrit was amazing. They invited several of their friends over for what was supposed to be a simple braai. But of course, with an executive chef at the helm, it turned into this elaborate affair with multiple side dishes, impeccable presentation, and candle lit table. I swear my stomach has shrunk already because I could only put down one plate and half of my dessert...needless to say, I was devastated.
The next day Gerrit dropped me off at Qwa Qwa so I could catch a minibus taxi to Joburg. That was a pleasant surprise to me because there are multiple in a day and a bit cheaper than the long distance buses. However, they're not air conditioned so we had to crack the windows a bit and after 4 hours, my face was grimy like no other.
The timing actually worked out pretty well because by the time I arrived in Joburg, purchased my tickets, grabbed something to eat, and hit the internet cafe, it was time to board my overnight bus to Bulawayo. I "splurged" and went with the pricier and more comfortable bus, but was assigned a seat in the front row. Thought that would be a good thing but the drivers were playing music and chatting all through the night! The bus and its 50 or so passengers arrived at the border crossing at 1am where we all shuffled off the bus and through a tent (a la refugee camp) to get stamped out of South Africa. Then we boarded the bus again, drove 1km or so and did the same thing again at the Zimbabwe entry point. No exaggeration...this whole process took 3 hours. The border entry was easy enough I suppose. One person asked questions, another took my $30 for the visa and wrote out the receipt, and yet another issued the visa. I was looking forward to boarding the bus and getting some sleep, but little did I know, that was only the beginning. When we got back to the bus, everyone had to remove their luggage and open everything for inspection and customs declaration - all 50 of us. They didn't really give me any trouble and exasperatedly said, "Just keep the form" when I indicated I had nothing to declare. The entire procedure took so long because some guys refused to pay taxes on goods imported and the bus can't leave until that was sorted out. Yea thanks.
Despite the hassle and inefficiency, I can't deny the kindness of the people I've encountered. The guy who sat next to me actually volunteered to drive me from the bus stop to the train station this morning. Every time I ask for directions, the people go out of their way to help and maybe even accompany you for a bit. They smile and they stare, and sometimes both at once.
I got my ticket for Vic Falls tonight, stored my bag, and walked around town a bit. It really is the pits... There's just nothing aesthetically pleasing about this place. The buildings are dilapidated, the store shelves are half empty, all the products look like they're from the 80s or 90s and the prices are inflated. By the way, Zimbabwe uses US dollars and also the South African Rand as their currency. BUT they only seem to have US paper bills. So anything smaller than one US dollar...they'll use Rands. I bought lunch for $2.50 and got back $17 US and R4. I guess it works.
I ate lunch by the side of the road. It was sadza (think polenta) and beef, with a side of people watching. Everything is still similar to South Africa, but obviously functioning on less resources. The older women walk around dressed in skirts and blazers and hats despite the heat. The younger guys are either in business casual or hip hop apparel. The mothers tie babies to their backs using a towel (which does not look comfortable for the babies). And the fruit sellers use a water bottle with holes punched into the cap to wash off fruit as people purchase them. So far, it seems like a laid back and calm country. The media has made Zimbabwe out to be a nightmare and I'm sure it is nothing but difficult for the people living here...but for me just passing through...it's not so bad.
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